Bar Top and Countertop Epoxy | 100% Solids Clear Flood Coat
One Stop Epoxy Bar Top and Countertop Epoxy is a professional grade, 100% solids, 2 to 1 resin system built for clear flood coats on bar tops, countertops, live edge tables, and custom furniture. It pours out level, releases its own air, and cures to the glass like depth people expect from a premium surface.
This is not a floor coating. It is a controlled pour resin for horizontal surfaces where clarity, air release, and finish quality are the only things that matter. VOC free, so it works in a home shop or an occupied building without clearing the room.
Seal the surface, mix it slow, pour it at 1/8 inch, and let it lay down. That is the whole job.
Where This Product Excels
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Commercial Bar Tops: Restaurant and bar surfaces that take glasses, elbows, and nightly cleaning.
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Live Edge Tables and Furniture: Slab work where the grain is the whole point.
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Countertop Resurfacing: Kitchen and bathroom counters going over the existing surface.
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Woodworking and Art: Sealing and finishing custom pieces where clarity is the finish.
Key Features and Benefits
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100% Solids Formula: Zero shrinkage and zero VOC. What you pour is what you keep.
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Superior Air Release: Formulated to push bubbles out on its own when the surface underneath is sealed.
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High Clarity: Deep, crystal clear finish that shows the wood grain and the pigment rather than hiding them.
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Blush Free Cure: No clouding, no oily film, none of the haze that shows up in cheaper resins.
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Scratch and Stain Resistant: Built for daily residential and commercial use.
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30 to 45 Minutes of Working Time: Long enough to place it, guide it, and think about it.
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Beginner Friendly: The 2 to 1 ratio is forgiving and nothing about this fights a clock.
The Golden Rule of Bar Tops and Countertops
Always apply a thin seal coat before your flood coat. Brush or squeegee a light pass on first. It seals the pores of the wood or concrete so air cannot escape into your finish coat later.
Almost every bubble in a finished bar top came from the substrate, not from the bucket. Porous material outgasses as it warms, and that air goes straight up into wet resin and cures there permanently. A seal coat locks it in the wood where it belongs. Skip it and you will be chasing bubbles with a torch and losing.
Mixing Instructions
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Mix Ratio: 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by volume.
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Mix Time: 2 to 3 minutes with a drill mixer on low speed.
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Technique: Scrape the sides and the bottom of the bucket. Unmixed resin on the wall of the pail is a soft spot in your finish.
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Speed: Keep the drill slow. Whipping the material beats air into it, and then you are fixing a problem you created.
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Mixers: Use a 1 gallon paddle for partial kits and a 5 gallon paddle for full kits.
Application Guidelines
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Seal Coat First: Thin film at 30 to 40 square feet per gallon on any porous surface.
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Flood Coat: Pour at 12 to 16 square feet per gallon to reach 1/8 inch. Do not stretch it.
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Let It Work: The resin is engineered to flow level on its own. Pour it and leave it alone.
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Edge Work: A Magic Trowel or a small roller guides the material at the edges without fighting the self leveling.
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Second Coats: Recoat within 12 to 24 hours and no sanding is needed. Past 24 hours, scuff with 220 grit for a mechanical bond.
ENVIRONMENTAL WARNING
Do not apply in direct sunlight or on a sunbaked surface, and do not apply with air blowing across it from a fan or an HVAC vent. Moving air skins the surface before the resin finishes laying down, and the wavy finish that leaves is permanent.
This Is a Flood Coat, Not a Casting Resin
Hard limit: 1/8 inch per lift. Pour it thicker and the exotherm runs away, which means yellowing, ripples, or cracks in a piece you cannot repair.
Deep casting work, river pours between live edge slabs, and object encapsulation all need a low exotherm casting resin, which is a different product built for depth. We do not stock one at this time. For a bar top or a counter, 1/8 inch is not a limitation, it is the correct build, and additional lifts get you more depth if you want it.
Add Color
A clear resin is a canvas. The same metallic pigments and solid color pigments that build metallic floors work here, and the 30 to 45 minute working time gives you room to swirl a pattern and have it stay where you put it.
We stock 100+ custom pigments, including 6 metallic variants. That is a deeper color range than the resin brands carry, and it is why a lot of makers buy their color here.
Coverage and Cure Schedule
| Application Step |
Thickness |
Coverage |
| Seal coat on porous surfaces |
Thin film |
30 to 40 sq ft per gallon |
| Standard flood coat |
1/8 inch |
12 to 16 sq ft per gallon |
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Working Time: 30 to 45 minutes depending on temperature
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Tack Free: 8 to 12 hours
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Light Use: 24 hours
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Full Cure: 72 hours
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Skill Level: Beginner
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this a bar top epoxy?
Yes. Commercial bar tops are one of the main things it was built for, along with countertops, live edge tables, and custom furniture. It pours level and cures clear enough to show everything underneath it.
How thick can I pour it at one time?
1/8 inch per lift. Thicker and the material overheats, which causes yellowing, ripples, or cracks. For more depth, pour additional lifts instead of one thick one.
How much do I need?
For the flood coat, figure 12 to 16 square feet per gallon at 1/8 inch. Your seal coat goes much further at 30 to 40 square feet per gallon. Do not use the seal coat number for your flood coat or the finish will be far too thin.
Can I use this for a river table?
Not for the deep pour between the slabs. That needs a low exotherm casting resin built for depth, and we do not stock one at this time. This is a flood coat for the finished surface.
Do I need to torch out the bubbles?
Usually not, if you sealed the surface first. This system releases air well over a sealed substrate. A quick pass with a torch or heat gun pops the stragglers, but if you are fighting bubbles, the seal coat is what failed.
Why is the seal coat so important?
Bubbles come from air escaping the wood or concrete underneath, not from your mixing. A thin seal coat locks that air in the substrate so it cannot ruin the flood coat on top.
Can I add color to it?
Yes. It takes metallic pigments, solid color pigments, and dyes, and the working time is long enough to swirl a pattern that stays put.
Do I have to sand between coats?
Not if the second coat goes on within 12 to 24 hours. After that, scuff with 220 grit to get a mechanical bond.
Is this epoxy food safe?
Once fully cured, 100% solids epoxy is generally considered inert and suitable for incidental food contact, which is why it works for kitchen counters and dining tables.
What happens if a fan is blowing on it while it cures?
Moving air skins the surface over before the resin lays down, and you get a permanent wavy finish. Turn off the fans, point the vents away, and keep it out of direct sun.
Is this beginner friendly?
Yes. The 2 to 1 ratio is forgiving and the working time is long enough that you are not racing a cure. Seal the surface, mix slow, pour, walk away.
Can I use this on my garage floor?
It is the wrong tool. This is built for counters and furniture, not slabs under traffic. Use 100% solids floor epoxy or a complete flooring system instead.
Technical Documents
Download the technical and safety data sheets below:
Technical Data Sheet (TDS) | Safety Data Sheet (SDS)
